Shein Under French Scrutiny: The Balance Between Global Corporate Ethics and Regulation - The Cost of Cheapness in an Era of Transparency

On November 8, 2025, the French government announced that it would allow the continuation of operations of the ultra-fast fashion giant SHEIN under "strict surveillance (sous surveillance rapprochée)." The government demanded corrections after it was found that sex dolls resembling children and weapons were identified on the company's marketplace. SHEIN avoided an immediate full suspension by halting third-party sales and removing the offending items. Laurent Rescure, the French Minister of Economy, emphasized the importance of ensuring compliance with the law. InfoMoney

What Happened—Three Days of Turmoil (11/5–11/8)

• November 5 (Wednesday): SHEIN opened its world's first permanent store at the BHV Marais department store in central Paris. While long lines formed before the opening, protests erupted outside the store over environmental and labor issues and unfair competition. Reuters

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• November 6 (Thursday): The French government requested the European Commission to investigate and take corrective measures under the Digital Services Act (DSA). It was reported that sex dolls resembling children and Category A equivalent weapons were repeatedly found on SHEIN's platform, prompting the initiation of domestic suspension procedures. AP News

• November 8 (Saturday): The government confirmed SHEIN's emergency measures, including blocking third-party sales and removing the offending items. Although SHEIN was allowed to continue operations, it was placed under "strict surveillance" with ongoing legal proceedings. InfoMoney

Government Points of Concern—"Illegal Content," "Protection of Minors," "Traceability of Sellers"

The French authorities raised concerns over three main points: (1) the listing of sex dolls reminiscent of minors, (2) the sale of weapons prohibited under French domestic law, and (3) the lack of traceability of sellers. This is directly linked to the EU's designation of SHEIN as a **VLOP (Very Large Online Platform) in 2024, which imposes enhanced obligations for risk assessment and countermeasures against illegal products. Violations could result in fines of up to 6% of turnover** or temporary suspension. AP News

Company Response—"Continued Dialogue" and "Visible Corrections"

SHEIN announced that it would "continue constructive dialogue with the authorities and work to resolve concerns." It pledged a complete ban on sex dolls and the elimination of weapons, and sought to avoid suspension by temporarily blocking third-party sellers on its marketplace. However, the authorities warned that "litigation and administrative procedures will continue," indicating only a temporary reprieve. InfoMoney

The "Polarization" Exposed by the Paris Store Opening—Coexistence of Queues and Protests

The BHV Marais store was bustling with customers seeking affordable prices, but outside, demonstrations advocating for sustainability and local industry protection were reported, and inside, there was confusion over security lines. While the department store management emphasized "attracting young customers" and "revitalizing physical stores," other tenant brands and related companies began to distance themselves through withdrawals and event cancellations. Reuters

Social Media Reaction—The Scale and Content of the "Bad Buzz"

• Surge in Posts: An analysis observed approximately 230,000 posts in the French-speaking world over the weeks spanning SHEIN's permanent store announcement (October), opening (11/5), and the illegal product scandal (11/6). Peaks occurred during the "store announcement" and the "sex doll scandal." Les Gens d'Internet

• Over 10,000 in One Week: In the week immediately following the announcement, there were over 10,000 posts/comments, with X (formerly Twitter) and LinkedIn being the main battlegrounds, while influencer posts played a role in spreading content on Instagram. visibrain.com

• Breakdown of Issues:

  • Ethics and Environment: Concerns that "massive input × ultra-low prices" accelerate overconsumption and waste, disrupt fair competition, and harm local industries.

  • Regulation: The necessity of DSA compliance, seller identification and traceability, and advertising and listing volume regulation.

  • Consumer Side: Voices defending SHEIN as a "buffer for disposable income" amid inflationary pressures.

  • Corporate Side: Opinions understanding the department store's customer attraction strategy and criticisms that it contradicts the "dignity and discernment of the establishment" are divided.

• Public Sentiment: A survey in October showed that 52% opposed SHEIN's entry into BHV, and it also highlighted generational differences, with 18–34-year-olds having the highest purchase experience. Stratégies

The Future of Regulation—Will France's "Ultra-Fast Fashion Law" Become a Reality?

In the French parliament, new law proposals to curb excessive new product launches and advertising exposure have repeatedly surfaced. The current turmoil has reignited discussions on advertising regulation, fines, and the viability of physical store expansion. The government strongly hinted at domestic preventive measures alongside the strengthening of DSA application at the EU level. Reuters

Impact on the Industry—Democratization of Prices or Structural Disruption?

While SHEIN advocates for "democratization of prices," traditional French brands and small to medium suppliers struggle to compete with the ultra-fast model's speed and volume. In the short term, it brings a "momentary peak" in store visits and sales, but in the long term, it leaves side effects such as brand dilution and discrepancies with sustainable policies. The BHV scene, where visible protests and customer queues coexisted, was a microcosm of this contradiction. The Guardian

Implications for Japan—A Litmus Test of "Price or Policy"

In Japan, the presence of ultra-fast fashion, including cross-border e-commerce, is also increasing. The French response in this case provides insights into

1. platform responsibility (immediate removal of illegal and harmful products and prevention of recurrence),

2. seller traceability on marketplaces,

3. preparation for

   social media public opinion (crisis communication × fact-checking × transparency). The French case clearly demonstrated that
   "cheapness" alone cannot offset risks. AP News

Conclusion—From "Continued Surveillance" to "Rebuilding Trust"

Although SHEIN avoided suspension, "continued surveillance" is not the endpoint. If the redistribution of illegal products or labeling deficiencies resurface, the reality of full suspension or massive penalties becomes more likely. Aggressive compliance, such as transparent audits, disclosure of supply chain information, and a review of advertising policies, is essential. The ripple effect from France is simultaneously influencing regulatory strengthening across Europe and consumer value judgments. InfoMoney