What the "Ultra-Fast Fashion Regulation" from France, which targets Shein and Temu, Asks of Japan

France's Target Is Not "Clothes Themselves" But the System That Keeps People Buying

In the French Parliament, the final adoption of a bill to regulate ultra-fast fashion is in sight. The primary targets are large online platforms like Shein, Temu, and AliExpress. A few years ago, these names were not necessarily familiar to the average consumer, but now they have deeply infiltrated everyday shopping scenes through social media ads, search ads, video posts, and influencer posts.

The distinctive feature of this French bill is that it does not simply punish companies that sell "cheap clothes." The business model under scrutiny is one that floods the market with a vast number of products in a short period, boosts consumer purchasing frequency through low prices and advertising, and ultimately shortens the lifespan of clothing. The bill targets "mode ultra express," or ultra-fast fashion, and aims to define regulatory targets based on factors such as the variety of products and whether there are mechanisms to encourage repairs.

Specifically, the bill imposes financial penalties on targeted companies for each product, with the amount gradually increasing. By 2030, the penalty could reach up to 20 euros per item, but it is capped at 50% of the product's pre-tax price. A portion of the collected funds will be used to develop infrastructure for clothing collection and recycling. Targeted companies will also be required to display messages promoting moderate consumption, reuse, and repair. Additionally, advertising bans are significant, covering not only traditional ads but also promotions through influencers.

This shift in fashion regulation focus from "product quality" to "mechanisms that accelerate consumption" is evident. Previously, issues with clothing were discussed in terms of labor conditions, quality, safety, and price competition. However, with the current integration of social media and e-commerce, the problem is more complex. Personalized ads appear every time you open your smartphone, showing clothes priced from hundreds to thousands of yen as "available for immediate purchase." The barrier to purchase is almost nonexistent, and clothing has shifted from being something used for a long time to content that is swapped out based on mood.

"Near-World-First" Ambition and Criticism of Being Watered Down

The attention on France's move is due to the regulation's scope, which extends beyond environmental impact to include advertising, influencers, price formation, and recycling cost burdens. The fashion industry is said to account for a significant portion of global greenhouse gas emissions and faces challenges throughout its lifecycle, including water resource consumption during manufacturing, chemical use, microplastics from synthetic fibers, and increased waste.

However, evaluations of the bill are not unanimous. Some environmental groups and left-wing factions criticize it for narrowing its scope compared to the initial awareness of the problem. The main point of contention is that while it strongly targets Asian giant platforms like Shein and Temu, traditional fast fashion companies like Zara, H&M, Primark, Uniqlo, and Kiabi might be excluded from the core of the regulation.

Indeed, there are differences between ultra-fast fashion and traditional fast fashion. Ultra-fast fashion uses a vast number of products, short sales cycles, online-only advertising operations, and data-driven demand forecasting to finely adjust product supply based on consumer reactions. On the other hand, traditional fast fashion has also expanded mass production, mass sales, and short-cycle trend consumption, and is not free from environmental impact structures.

On social media, there is both a welcoming of the bill and a noticeable reaction that "if we truly aim for sustainable fashion, targeting only Shein is insufficient." On LinkedIn, while France's regulation is praised as a "first step," there are questions about excluding European companies and existing major players from the target. On X, posts suggest that "it's necessary to stop Shein and Temu, but are Zara and H&M really not a problem?"

Meanwhile, from the perspective of commercial stakeholders and small to medium-sized retailers, there is a strong demand for regulation against cheap overseas platforms. For domestic businesses with physical stores, bearing the costs of labor, taxes, inventory management, and environmental compliance, ultra-low-cost e-commerce is not just a competitor but an opponent playing by different rules. The difficulty lies in the overlap of environmental regulation, industry protection, and consumer protection.

Will the Advertising Ban Be Realized?

One of the most notable aspects of the bill is the advertising ban. The growth of fast fashion is not supported by low prices alone. The mechanisms that continuously capture consumer attention, such as repeatedly displayed ads on social media, purchase introductions in video posts, coupons, limited-time sales, free shipping, and game-like app notifications, are crucial.

If the advertising ban becomes effective, it will significantly impact the growth model of ultra-fast fashion companies. Particularly, if promotions via influencers are restricted, the spread among younger audiences will weaken. France's attempt to tackle this issue could set a significant precedent for other countries.

However, as the article points out, there is legal uncertainty surrounding this advertising ban. Its compatibility with European Union rules is questioned, and if the European Commission does not approve, it may not be practically applicable. The French government believes it can justify the ban from the perspectives of environmental protection and consumer protection, drawing on public health exceptions like the Évin Law, which restricted alcohol and tobacco advertising. However, the EU may not necessarily make the same judgment.

This point is also important for Japan. In Japan, advertising regulation intersects with multiple issues, including freedom of expression, freedom of business, consumer protection, protection of minors, the Act against Unjustifiable Premiums and Misleading Representations, and the Act on Specified Commercial Transactions. If Japan were to consider regulating ultra-fast fashion advertising, a simple argument of "banning ads because they are bad for the environment" would not suffice. More specific regulatory designs would be needed, addressing issues like exaggerated advertising, misleading representations, UI that induces impulse buying, unclear return and shipping conditions, marketing to minors, and advertising disclosure in influencer posts.

From Japan's Perspective, This Is Not a Distant Issue

In Japan, although it has not become as politically contentious as in France, the same structure is already spreading. Through smartphone ads, social media videos, word-of-mouth apps, and cross-border e-commerce, low-priced clothing from overseas can be easily purchased. Tops for a few hundred yen, dresses in the thousand-yen range, and sale-priced accessories can be delivered to your home with just a few taps.

Meanwhile, Japanese consumers have long experienced deflation and wage stagnation. Amid rising prices, "being able to buy cheaply" is also a means of protecting one's livelihood. On social media, there is often a backlash against criticism of ultra-low-cost fashion, with arguments like "only those who can afford expensive clothes can talk about the environment" and "don't take away options from young people and low-income groups." This is an argument that cannot be ignored.

A typical failure of environmental policy is to demand "sacrifice" from consumers. Even if we say, "Let's buy sustainable clothes," not everyone can choose them if the price is several times higher. If similar discussions are to be advanced in Japan, it is necessary to visualize who bears the costs behind the low prices, rather than simply criticizing cheap clothes.

For example, the environmental impact during manufacturing, emissions from transportation, costs of returns and disposal, handling of unsold products, municipal waste management, and the lack of recycling facilities, as well as the impact on domestic sewing and retail industries. If the burdens not included in the product price paid by consumers are being passed on to society as a whole, the discussion will be about how to fill that gap.

The French bill aims to internalize these "invisible costs" as penalties for each product. In Japan, the concepts of recycling costs and extended producer responsibility have become widespread for PET bottles, home appliances, and automobiles. The question now is how much of the same approach can be applied to clothing.

Japan's Challenges Lie in "Collection" and "Reuse"

When considering sustainable fashion in Japan, raising awareness at the time of purchase is not enough. The major challenge lies in the disposal of clothes that are no longer worn. The Ministry of the Environment is promoting sustainable fashion, taking into account the environmental impact from the production to the wearing and disposal of clothing. An action plan aimed at reducing clothing discarded from households was also formulated for 2026.

However, from the perspective of consumers, it is unclear how to dispose of clothes. There are options such as municipal resource collection, in-store collection, flea market apps, reuse shops, donations, and passing them on to acquaintances, as well as combustible waste. But it is not clear which option truly reduces environmental impact. Clothes in poor condition, cheap synthetic fibers, non-branded items, and large quantities of seasonal clothing have limited reuse outlets.

The problem with ultra-fast fashion is not just that it is cheap. It is bought in cycles that are too short, becomes unfashionable too quickly, and is produced in large quantities in a state that is difficult to reuse. Even if it flows into the reuse market, if demand cannot keep up, it ultimately ends up in disposal or low-quality recycling. Simply increasing clothing collection boxes will not solve the problem.

What Japan needs is a design that connects all stages before buying, while using, and when disposing of clothes. Clothes that are easy to repair, made of durable materials, of resalable quality, with a sorting system after collection, fiber recycling technology, and collaboration between municipalities and companies. Without these in place, calling for "sustainable consumption" will only shift the burden onto the goodwill of consumers.

Social Media Reactions Reflect Consumers' True Feelings

Reactions on social media regarding the French bill are broadly divided into three categories.

The first is welcoming voices. Reactions include "Finally, politics is moving," "It's groundbreaking to delve into advertising regulation," and "Influencer-driven mass purchase introductions should be stopped." Particularly from those highly concerned about environmental issues, there is a visible fatigue with the mass disposal of clothes and excessive advertising by low-cost e-commerce.

The second is criticism of the narrow scope. There is a view that "Targeting only Shein and Temu won't change the overproduction of the entire fashion industry" and "Isn't it an industrial policy to protect Europe and existing major players?" This is also important from Japan's perspective. If Japan were to introduce similar regulations, targeting only overseas e-commerce could lead to criticism of protectionism. On the other hand, if the structure of mass production and mass disposal is targeted regardless of domestic or international origin, existing major apparel companies would also be affected.

The third is backlash from the perspective of consumers. Voices include "Some people have no choice but to buy cheap clothes," "Environmentally friendly clothes are expensive," and "If prices rise due to regulation, it will be a problem." This is a very realistic reaction and should not be ignored. If sustainable fashion becomes a choice only for the wealthy or those with high awareness, it will not lead to societal change.

These three reactions may seem conflicting, but they are actually looking at the same issue from different angles. They want to reduce environmental impact, protect fair competition, and also protect consumer choices. France's bill attempts to satisfy these three simultaneously, which is why it is challenging.

For Japanese Companies, It's Both a Threat and an Opportunity

For Japanese apparel companies, France's regulation is not a distant issue. If advertising regulations and environmental penalties per product spread in Europe, globally expanding companies will be forced to respond. Product variety, sales cycles, material information, repair support, collection systems, advertising displays, and influencer strategies could all become subjects of scrutiny.

On the other hand, this is also an opportunity for Japanese companies. Japan has cultural strengths in using things for a long time, repairing them, and handling them carefully. There are many resources compatible with sustainable fashion, such as second-hand clothing, remakes, repairs, the circulation of uniforms and work clothes, local textile industries, and craftsmanship.

However, it cannot be said that "because it's made in Japan, it's sustainable." Even with domestic production, environmental impact arises if there is excessive inventory, and high-priced items cannot be considered sustainable if they are discarded quickly. What matters is not just where it is made, but how long it can be used, whether it can be repaired, whether it can be reused, and how it circulates in the end.

In the future, companies will likely be required to provide specific information disclosure rather than abstract messages like "we are environmentally conscious." Companies that can clearly demonstrate the origin of materials, country of manufacture, CO2 emissions, durability, repair support, collection routes, and recycling rates can offer value beyond price competition.

What Can Japanese Policy Learn?

There are three points Japan can learn from France's bill.

First, define the target as "business models that lead to overconsumption" rather than "cheap clothes." If the criterion is only price, the burden on consumers becomes too great. It is necessary to judge by combining factors such as product variety, sales cycles, advertising volume, repairability, return rates, and disposal rates.

Second, place advertising and influencer strategies at the center of the discussion. Modern consumption is not just about seeing and choosing products in stores. Desires are created on social media, reinforced by algorithms, and purchases are completed within minutes. If regulations and awareness only focus on post-sale disposal, they cannot capture the entry point of consumption.

Third, clearly define the use of penalties. If funds collected from companies are used for collection, sorting, reuse, recycling, repair support, and consumer education, it becomes a financial source for a circular system rather than just a punishment. If this is ambiguous, consumers will perceive it as "just a price increase."

"Change How You Buy" Instead of "Don't Buy"

Criticism of ultra-fast fashion can easily turn into moral preaching to consumers. "Don't buy such clothes," "Don't jump at cheapness," "Think about the environment." However, that alone will not solve the problem. Many people choose clothes within a limited budget, while dealing with work, school, childcare, ceremonies, and seasonal changes.

What is needed is not to deny the freedom to buy, but to create a state where the responsibility after purchase is designed for society as a whole. Instead of blaming people who buy cheap clothes, we need to review the system that sells clothes with extremely short lifespans in large quantities, encourages replacement through advertising, and shifts disposal costs onto society. This is the question posed by France's bill.

In Japan, sustainable fashion is shifting from being a "hobby for the conscious" to an issue of policy, corporate strategy, consumer protection, and regional industry. In the future, discussions about cheap clothes will expand beyond mere savings or trends to include taxes, waste management, advertising regulation, digital platforms, labor, and environmental diplomacy.

Clothes that arrive as if overflowing from smartphone screens. Each piece is light, cheap, and convenient. However, when viewed from a societal perspective, the accumulation is by no means light. France's challenge also poses this question to Japan: Do we want a society where we continue to buy clothes more cheaply, more quickly, and in greater quantities? Or do we want to gradually change how we engage with clothes to be longer-lasting, deeper, and more responsible?

The answer is not determined by law alone. It is determined by the combination of corporate design, administrative systems, the advertising environment on social media, and the choices of each consumer. France's anti-ultra-fast fashion law is news that marks the beginning of this journey.

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