80,000 Signatures, Brand Defection, Public Financial Withdrawal — Why Paris Department Store Employees are Protesting the Shein Contract

On Friday, October 10, in front of the historic department store BHV (Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville) in the Marais district of central Paris, workers and union flags were lined up alongside placards reading "NO SHEIN." The catalyst was the announcement by BHV's operating company, Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), of an agreement to provide a permanent space on the 7th floor to the ultra-fast fashion giant Shein from China. Workers rose in protest, claiming that "the future of the store and the dignity of the workplace are threatened." At the site, from 3:30 PM (local time) , city hall officials and union representatives gave speeches, and a demonstration involving dozens of people was observed. Reuters

---

What's happening: The permanent expansion of BHV × Shein

SGM justified the permanent introduction of Shein as "part of an effort to increase motivation for young people to visit and modernize BHV." Shein also stated that it would " boost visitor numbers and benefit the attraction of other brands ." Meanwhile, strong opposition is spreading from the political and civic sectors, including Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo , shaking the image of BHV's curated multi-brand selection as its "face." Reuters

The permanence extends beyond BHV. There are plans to open Shein outlets in various Galeries Lafayette locations operated by SGM, marking a turning point where the company, which was digitally focused, will have a permanent physical store network in France . Le Monde.fr

---

Voices from the field: Workers' concerns about "workplace" and "store value"

At the protest site, Florine Bie, a BHV worker and union representative, pointed out, " Customers are already starting to leave. They can't find the products they want and do not approve of Shein's introduction ." A union statement was also read, indicating that BHV had been experiencing payment delays to brands and shortages, leading to declining sales and growing employment insecurity. SGM explained that the delays were due to the transition of the payment system after the acquisition of BHV in November 2023 , which they claim will be resolved within a few weeks . Reuters

---

Reactions from partners and finance: Brand defection and "capital warning"

There is also a chain reaction of opposition among BHV's suppliers and tenant brands. Odaje and Figaret Paris have announced their withdrawal, and A.P.C. and PVH (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) are considering similar decisions. The long-established Armor-Lux has declared its departure, citing an unpaid amount of approximately 400,000 euros and ethical concerns. Le Monde.fr

Adding to the pressure was the move by public finance. The French Caisse des Dépôts (Banque des Territoires) announced the termination of negotiations with SGM regarding the acquisition of BHV real estate . The decision explicitly stated that **"the partnership with Shein contradicts our values."** This "capital warning" directly impacts BHV's future plans, with the operators countering that it is " political pressure ." Le Monde.fr

---

Regulation and reputation: The accelerating encirclement of "ultra-fast fashion"

Since its founding in 2012, Shein has rapidly grown into one of the world's largest fast fashion companies, but criticism over labor conditions, carbon emissions, and lack of transparency in information disclosure has intensified in various countries. In Europe, institutional tightening, including advertising regulations and fines, is being considered and advanced. Since July, the cumulative fines from French and Italian authorities have reached 191 million euros , and the company has declared its intention to strengthen internal controls . Reuters

---

SNS reactions: The amplification device of citizens, brands, and politics

1) Citizens' visible anger

Parisian citizen sites introduced the movement of citizens calling to "Keep Shein out of BHV" through online petitions . Shortly after its release , it gathered nearly 80,000 endorsements , contributing to the rapid visibility of the protest. Solitaire Paris

2) Brand-side messaging

Messages from brands and managers who announced withdrawal or reconsideration spread through media quotes and posts. Statements emphasizing that " it is incompatible with our values " were disseminated on X (formerly Twitter) and industry magazines , highlighting the "context" of department store curation and the "disconnect" with the ultra-cheap, mass-production model. Le Monde.fr

3) Political messaging

Anne Hidalgo, the Mayor of Paris, expressed opposition to Shein's entry into BHV, stating that it is " incompatible with Paris's sustainable commercial strategy ." This stance was widely circulated through television, online media, and X . Ariel Weil, the Mayor of the Paris Center District , and other local politicians also shared related information, with SNS serving as a "megaphone" in the process of the public finance negotiation withdrawal becoming news. X (formerly Twitter)+1

4) Surge in volume

Data from SNS analysis companies reported that mentions of Shein on the internet increased by 27% compared to the previous week from late September to early October , confirming the rise in the intensity of the discussion in numbers. Brand24

---

What was questioned: The "editorial power" of department stores and the value of the city

BHV is a prestigious department store that has skillfully curated high and low to create a **"place of discovery". However, the logic of ultra-fast fashion characterized by "cheapest × mass × ultra-fast" fundamentally clashes with the value proposition of department stores centered on curation (selection) and storytelling . This conflict erupted this time as a multi-layered backlash from labor, partners, and administration .

While the proposition of attracting young customers by SGM is understandable, the risks of brand defection and betrayal by public finance pose costs beyond short-term customer attraction. The "modernization" for BHV to survive may not be a simplification of the price axis but rather a step towards sustainable and transparent editing . This protest has once again demonstrated the hurdle of the "social license" that Paris, as a "sustainable urban brand," demands from department stores. FashionNetwork

---

A litmus test for Shein: The "real" adaptation of the online champion

For Shein, which has wielded overwhelming SKU rotation and low cost as weapons online, the permanent real operation involves a vastly different cost structure and reputation management. The logistics, inventory, and return practices, as well as the regulatory and public opinion risks surrounding labor, environment, and data , are more easily visible than online. The "second phase" in the French market will be a litmus test for the company's governance, transparency, and regional adaptability . The Verge

---

Future issues (summary)

1. Labor: Resolving payment delay issues and alleviating on-site concerns.Reuters

2. Partners: Stopping the chain of brand defections and rebuilding BHV's editorial value.Le Monde.fr

3. Capital and real estate: Re-designing BHV's future plans and capital relationships shaken by the withdrawal of public finance.Le Monde.fr

4. Regulation: The sustainability of institutional responses, including fines, advertising regulations, and the handling of cross-border e-commerce.Reuters